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Why it's rated this way

3 ingredients on this label are flagged. A cosmetic's rating is set by its most serious finding — here, Sodium Hydroxide.

1. Sodium HydroxideMinor concernAlkali (lye). It is used up in the product: as a pH adjuster it neutralises an acid in the formula, and in soap it turns the oils into soap. The EU caps the alkalinity it may leave (pH 11 for pH-adjuster use); the higher limits, with warnings, are only for hair straighteners, cuticle removers and depilatories.

   What it is

   Its recorded role: buffering and denaturant. About Sodium Hydroxide

   Why it's flagged

   Alkali (lye). It is used up in the product: as a pH adjuster it neutralises an acid in the formula, and in soap it turns the oils into soap. The EU caps the alkalinity it may leave (pH 11 for pH-adjuster use); the higher limits, with warnings, are only for hair straighteners, cuticle removers and depilatories.

   Regulatory basis

   EU Cosmetics Regulation, Annex III — allowed only within set limits and conditions; Greenveil's curated cosmetic-ingredient concern list.

   How sure we are

   High confidence. The label names this substance exactly.

2. Ci 77891Minor concernPermitted white pigment and UV filter. Inhaled titanium dioxide powder is a suspected carcinogen, so the EU restricts it in loose face powders and hair sprays and bars it from any product that could be breathed in; in creams, toothpaste and other non-sprayed products those limits do not come into play.

   What it is

   Its recorded role: uv filter and uv absorber. About Ci 77891

   Why it's flagged

   Permitted white pigment and UV filter. Inhaled titanium dioxide powder is a suspected carcinogen, so the EU restricts it in loose face powders and hair sprays and bars it from any product that could be breathed in; in creams, toothpaste and other non-sprayed products those limits do not come into play.

   Regulatory basis

   EU Cosmetics Regulation, Annex III — allowed only within set limits and conditions; Greenveil's curated cosmetic-ingredient concern list.

   How sure we are

   High confidence. The label names this substance exactly.

3. Cetrimonium ChlorideMinor concernHair-conditioning quaternary ammonium. It irritates skin and eyes at high strength, so the EU caps it (other than as a preservative) at 2.5 % in rinse-off hair products, 1 % in leave-on hair products and 0.5 % in leave-on face products — the levels the SCCS found safe.

   What it is

   Its recorded role: preservative and antimicrobial. About Cetrimonium Chloride

   Why it's flagged

   Hair-conditioning quaternary ammonium. It irritates skin and eyes at high strength, so the EU caps it (other than as a preservative) at 2.5 % in rinse-off hair products, 1 % in leave-on hair products and 0.5 % in leave-on face products — the levels the SCCS found safe.

   Regulatory basis

   EU Cosmetics Regulation, Annex III — allowed only within set limits and conditions; Greenveil's curated cosmetic-ingredient concern list.

   How sure we are

   High confidence. The label names this substance exactly.

Assessed against the label as captured: all 25 ingredients recognised.